Lagos Fashion: How Nigerian Designers Are Redefining Global Trends [International Edition]

In recent years, African fashion has thrived in terms of creativity and innovation, drawing increased attention.
global attention
.

Designers and brands are producing clothing that captures the essence of African cities and their engagement with international fashion trends. Consider Nigeria’s
Ejiro Amos Tafiri
and
Mai Atafo
, Ghana’s
Christie Brown
and
Larry Jay
, Kenya’s
Ikojn
or South Africa’s
Boyde
.

Cities such as Lagos, Accra, Marrakesh, Nairobi, and Johannesburg have turned into
global fashion capitals
They serve as fashion production centers crafting styles that reflect their global nature; characterized by a dynamic blend of various nationalities.

Read more:
When it comes to creating eco-friendly garments, West African fashion designers stand at the forefront globally.

In a recent
study
My emphasis is on how fashion in Lagos encapsulates the vibrant cosmopolitan nature of Nigeria’s metropolis. This showcases an intersection of international and indigenous styles.

Based on conversations with designers, I explore how cosmopolitanism emerges via attire and the underlying gender dynamics involved. While African fashion draws upon indigenous origins, it simultaneously adapts to international social and cultural trends.

Cosmopolitan Africa

Cosmopolitanism
It is an international community that goes beyond national boundaries. Various cultures influence a large city’s fashion trends, much as they shape its culinary scenes.

However, even though discussions about cosmopolitanism have primarily focused on Western nations, Africa boasts a substantial historical record of engagement with various regions around the globe via commerce, population movements, and intellectual exchanges.

The African-American philosopher Kwame Anthony Appiah
argues
the Western concept of cosmopolitanism typically implies an all-encompassing acceptance of alien customs and values. However, for many Africans, cosmopolitanism involves merging the indigenous with the international. This approach is termed rooted cosmopolitanism. Various manifestations of this can be observed across different African communities, like so:
urbanisation
Or fashion in this instance.

Lagos

Lagos
is Africa’s
most populous
The city houses numerous inhabitants.
migrants
It includes both foreign residents and local inhabitants from various cultural origins who discover significance in their lives as Lagosians.

I selected Lagos as the location for my study due to its
vibrant creative industries
. A decade ago, Lagos was
judged
According to one magazine, it ranks as the world’s fourth-largest fashion hub. I conducted interviews with 18 fashion designers based there.

Western-inspired outfits made from local materials for women

I discovered that fashion in Lagos can primarily be categorized into two trends: fabric and style—the textiles used for clothing and the current fashionable designs.

Currently, local textiles and adapted foreign-made fabrics that have been integrated into Nigerian culture are popular choices for women’s fashion.

Regional textiles consist of hand-crafted materials such as woven or colored cloth and originate from different cultural communities.
Aso oke
or
Akwete
.

Popular appropriated fabrics are
Ankara
(prints made of wax, originating from Indonesia)
lace
(a intricate, lace-like material commonly used in traditional Nigerian clothing) and
George
(A kind of Madras fabric widely used by Nigeria’s Igbo people).

Prior to the 2000s, these textiles were utilized across opposite poles of usage. Traditional materials like indigenous cloths, lace, and George fabrics were reserved for special social and cultural gatherings. In contrast, Ankara prints were predominantly used for daily wear, such as iros (wrap skirts) and bubas (the conventional three-part ensemble worn primarily by married or older women), particularly within lower-income communities.

The current trendiness of local fabrics in fashion did not arise out of nothing. It was the result of decisions made by designers, a gradual societal adoption, and supportive governmental actions.

Contemporary designers are intentionally employing indigenous textiles as a means of affirming their heritage and popularizing their usage. Several encountered initial resistance. Zena, who took part in my study,
study
, managed to sell only two items of her clothing during her first year in business. She devoted time to convince others “this is good”:

Interestingly enough, they are simple to wear and budget-friendly. However, it took some time for appreciation to set in.

Since the early 1990s the Nigerian government has been committed to promoting local fabrics and locally produced clothes. In 2017, it approved a Monday and Wednesday ”
Made-in-Nigeria Dress Days
” policy.

Although locally sourced materials represent the current fabric preference in women’s apparel, the style trend leans towards Western influences. Designers incorporate these native textiles into designs that possess universal charm.

Nevertheless, they remain aware of keeping authenticity through materials, shapes, or design ideas that echo their cultural heritage.

As per Eji, her Western designs still focus on the African woman:

The African woman is not just found in Africa; she is present across the globe. In my view, the world has become more cosmopolitan today with mixed-race marriages becoming common. We can adopt cultural elements from every corner of the earth and blend them together seamlessly.

Lagos society’s intricacy and its receptiveness to worldwide styles are reflected in women’s fashion as it aims to blend local aspects with global influences.

For men, it’s the reverse situation.

In Lagos, cosmopolitan menswear takes a different path compared to womenswear. While the fabrics tend towards Western styles, the designs lean more toward traditional influences.

In Lagos, many men opt for the two or three-piece “native” attire. For everyday use, they might choose the buba and sokoto, which consists of a matching pair of shirt-like top and pants made from the same material. However, during special occasions, an outfit known as the agbada is preferred; this ensemble includes trousers, a blouse-style garment, topped with a flowing robe that has wide sleeves and billowy proportions.

The participants in my research indicated that the
ethnic background
At any point in time, the president impacts men’s fashion trends. For instance, former President Muhammadu Buhari, who comes from the northern region of the nation, helped make the wearing of the
baba riga
(an upper garment, pants, and a large, intricately embroidered coverall)
Hausa
people.

Current president
Bola Ahmed Tinubu
expands the prevalence of Agbada fashion as he does so
Yoruba
Men’s fashion presents a cohesive cultural image, inspired by the ethnic background of the leading political figure and embraced by many males regardless of their heritage. This trend has the potential to incorporate communities who feel marginalized by mainstream national cultures.

Read more:
Kofi Ansah departed from Ghana with the ambition of becoming an internationally renowned fashion designer—how his comeback revitalized the local industry.

The research highlights Nigeria’s fashion industry embracing contemporary trends by integrating global styles. However, these influences do not overshadow local elements. With some traditional aspects fading due to cultural exchanges, novel expressions emerge at a grassroots level. In essence, this represents an appreciation for diversity within Lagos’s fashion scene and broader societal fabric.

Adwoa Owusuaa Bobie
, Research Associate at the Center for Cultural and African Studies, Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST)

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).