Interview: Matin Kim’s Quest to Globalize K-Fashion

With growing worldwide fascination for Korean culture encompassing K-pop, television series, and cinema, focus has now shifted towards Korean consumer products as well. Matin Kim, an emerging figure in the realm of K-fashion, is capitalizing on this trend through swift development and international outreach.

International customers are intrigued by Korean fashion trends,” stated Lee Jun-seong, who leads brand strategy for Hago Haus, the company behind the Matin Kim label. “To achieve success abroad, you have to build your reputation and trust within South Korea initially.

Launched in 2018 by fashion designer and social media personality Kim Da-in, Matin Kim came under the ownership of Hago Haus, which is part of Daemyung Chemical’s portfolio for branding investments, in 2021. Since its inception, the company has seen remarkable growth; revenues escalated from one billion won in 2018 to fifty billion won in 2022, then surged twofold to one hundred billion won in 2023, with projections aiming at reaching two hundred billion won this year.

Martin Kim has kept growing since Founder Kim withdrew from management in 2023. A significant factor behind this success is Hago Haus’s approach to active brand cultivation. Besides providing financial backing, the firm sends experienced professionals—often drawn from large corporations—to revamp and expand every brand’s processes, personnel, and fiscal strategies. They also assist with developing physical retail spaces. Approximately forty brands, such as Depound and Uniform Bridge, benefit from this comprehensive care framework.

The brand is extending its reach internationally with new outlets in Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, and Macau. On March 24, Matin Kim inaugurated its inaugural shop in Japan within Miyashita Park located in Shibuya, Tokyo. During the initial three-day period, approximately 4,000 customers flocked to the location, contributing to an impressive revenue of 320 million won. The majority of these shoppers consisted of females aged between 20 and 39 years old. As per reports from Musinsa—the company managing Matin Kim’s logistics in Japan—sales surpassed expectations twofold.

This year, Matin Kim is making significant strides towards expanding globally. They have partnered with the U.S.-based luxury label Coach, which appeals strongly to Generation Z and millennial consumers, and also aired advertisements promoting Netflix’s highly acclaimed show “Squid Game” Season 2. With an enhanced focus on international promotion, the company aims to broaden its presence across 30 new countries.

ChosunBiz sat down with Lee Jun-seong at the Hago Haus offices in Pangyo on April 30 to talk about Matin Kim’s expansion plan. Having previously served as a brand strategist for Shinsegae International, Lee came onboard with Hago Haus in August 2023. What follows is an excerpt from their conversation presented through this question-and-answer format featuring Lee.

The opening of the Shibuya store garnered significant attention. Was this outcome anticipated?

We had high hopes due to the success of four prior pop-up shops in Japan, where we witnessed substantial queues and enthusiastic feedback. For instance, our Shibuya Parco location last year attracted more than 3,000 guests on its first day. Nonetheless, attendance for this event surpassed those expectations. During the opening weekend, individuals queued up for over two hours before they could go inside.

What explains Matin Kim’s popularity in Japan?

The Korean Wave undoubtedly has an impact. With growing curiosity about Korea as a whole, there’s increased focus on prominent trends such as beauty products and style. Additionally, our main store located in Seongsu significantly contributed to this trend. Post-pandemic, visitors from different nations began flocking there, which naturally boosted the brand’s visibility.

The product garnered attention as well. In Japan, domestic brands frequently come across as pricey and rather unexciting; however, Matin Kim provides fashionable yet easy-to-wear styles at a more affordable cost. This appealed particularly to customers in their 20s and 30s.

Many have mentioned not spotting such fashionable attire at these prices within Japan. Interestingly, despite avoiding high-profile celebrities, advertisements, or social media influencers, the brand gained followers simply due to its appealing look. It has come to my attention that Japanese and Taiwanese department stores are keen on featuring Matin Kim in their more trendy sections.

In what ways do consumer behaviors abroad vary from those in Korea?

Differences may be nuanced, yet international clients often show greater interest in attire. For instance, in South Korea, sales equally divide between clothes and accessories. However, in Hong Kong, garments perform notably better. Consequently, we’re tailoring our approach to suit each region’s distinct tastes.

What do you believe constitutes the main appeal of K-fashion?

“Previously, fashion trends were primarily dictated by major international brands through their seasonal lines. However, today, Korean fashion has developed its distinct character. This uniqueness is somewhat difficult to articulate yet unmistakably evident. Despite similarities in basic pieces like blouses or trousers, Korean styles possess a refined flair and specific touches that make them stand out.”

The team members in their 20s mention that Matin Kim outfits possess a refined yet fashionable distinction when adorned, resulting in an indescribable allure. This aspect attracts younger buyers who prefer flexible branding.

Our design team works with complete creative liberty. In contrast to most national brands where designers often sport high-end fashion labels, each of our ten designers exclusively wears Matin Kim apparel. Being enthusiasts of the brand, these creators produce garments they personally wish to wear, thus attracting their contemporaries within the same demographic.”

Martin Kim is expanding internationally this year. What’s the plan?

Many brands initially establish themselves online, subsequently opening physical retail locations as they venture into regional and international markets. This standard progression naturally leads to global expansion. Early this year, we partnered with American fashion label Coach. Known for their popularity amongst young Americans, Coach aimed to broaden its reach in Asia through collaboration with Matin Kim, who enjoys significant support from Generation Z across Asia. While Coach focused on producing handbags, our role was to create apparel, and the resulting product line swiftly sold out.

After partnering up, we launched advertisements for Netflix’s ‘Squid Game’ Season 2 as well as on 133 Korean Air flights spanning across 34 nations. This move may appear unconventional for a brand without physical presence abroad or significant worldwide recognition to execute such extensive global promotions. Post-collaboration with Coach, comments on social platforms queried, “Who exactly is Matin Kim to be collaborating with Coach?” Nonetheless, we hold firm belief that strategic marketing efforts have the potential to unveil our brand to an international audience and hasten our expansion into foreign markets.

Indeed, ever since the Coach collaboration and Netflix advertisements were unveiled in January, traffic to Matin Kim’s international website surged by 218%, with overseas sales climbing by 207%. Historically, many Korean brands would initiate their expansion by opening brick-and-mortar locations before generating interest, an approach that frequently fell short. Our strategy now involves building intriguing global attention initially, followed by entering new foreign markets contingent upon this reception.”

What do you believe is essential for K-fashion to thrive internationally?

The key factor is initially excelling and gaining popularity within Korea itself. No brand has managed to succeed internationally without establishing a solid base domestically. I recall during our time in Eastern Europe, where our model was from abroad, a local commented, ‘We would like to see how typical South Koreans really dress.’ People outside of Korea are intrigued by authentic Korean fashion styles.

Based on my observations from abroad, K-fashion holds significant global potential. A lot of areas in Europe, which is at the forefront of the fashion industry, have not been exposed to much Korean fashion as of yet. However, thanks to the extensive fan base of K-pop, an increasing number of people are starting to take notice of the clothing worn by K-pop artists.

Others argue that Korean fashion trails behind both Korean beauty and cuisine.

That’s due to the structural limitations within the fashion industry. The sector grapples with issues such as varying body shapes, sizes, seasonal variations, and rapid trends. As clothing items are tailored primarily for Korean consumers, they tend to be well-received throughout Asia; however, extending this reach globally requires meticulous strategy. Accessory lines can mitigate these constraints. At Matin Kim, accessories constitute roughly fifty percent of our offerings, facilitating smoother international market penetration. Items like bags and wallets aren’t constrained by size or fitting concerns and enjoy extended sales periods. Additionally, we’ve observed numerous men purchasing accessories initially intended for women.

Is there an intention to broaden the range of products to include items such as cosmetics?

Matin Kim debuted their cosmetic line in 2023, yet the brand has expanded rapidly such that they’re currently concentrating on their primary operations. Having previously handled beauty lines, I understand that the recipe for success in cosmetics differs significantly from that of fashion. Despite appearing straightforward, it turns out to be quite intricate. Nonetheless, expansion remains an option down the road. To illustrate, recognizing that numerous men were purchasing women’s clothing items like t-shirts, windbreakers, and hats led us to introduce a menswear collection last year.

What do you aspire to achieve ultimately?

As a brand, we aim for people all around the world to recognize and sport Matin Kim. We strongly commit to showcasing Korean fashion globally. Other brands such as Depound, Treeming Bird, and Uniform Bridge intend to emulate Matin Kim’s route to success.